Stick Welding Rod Number Meaning: Decoding E6013 & E7018

A box of 6013 rods sits on the bench at a home garage, and the welder who bought it has no idea whether it will hold a trailer hitch or just a garden ornament. The answer was stamped on the rod the whole time — a short code like E7018 that tells you tensile strength, weld position, coating type, and even which polarity your machine must run.

The Four Characters on a Stick Rod: A Quick Answer to the Main Question

Every stick welder has a coffee can story. Maybe it is a dented can of rods someone left on the shelf at an estate sale, or a half-price bundle of unmarked-looking electrodes a buddy traded you for a favor. You get them home, roll one out, and there it is: a short string of characters stamped in the flux near the bare end. E6013. E7018. Sometimes E7018-H4R. It looks like a part number, and because it looks like a part number, most people treat it like one and guess.

Guessing works right up until it does not. A rod that runs beautifully on a decorative garden gate may be completely wrong for a trailer hitch, a handrail post, or anything else that has to hold a load.

Here is the good news: that stamp is not a guess. It is a code you can read in about ten seconds once someone shows you how, and this article is going to show you. The short answer to “stick welding rod number meaning” is that the code is an AWS (American Welding Society) classification, and every single character in it carries specific, standardized information about the rod’s strength, the positions you can weld in with it, the type of flux coating on it, and even which current and polarity your machine must produce.

What “Stick Welding” Actually Is (and Why the Code Exists)

Stick welding is formally called SMAW, Shielded Metal Arc Welding. You clamp a ground, strike an arc on a consumable bare-wire electrode covered in a flux coating, and the flux does three jobs at once: it burns into shielding gas to protect the molten puddle from oxygen, it forms a slag layer over the finished bead, and it adds alloying elements to the weld metal. It is the oldest still-common arc process and remains the go-to for field work, outdoors, and repair, which you can read more about in our look at the advantages of stick welding.

Because so many different flux recipes and wire chemistries exist, the welding industry needed a common language. The AWS wrote one. In the United States, covered carbon steel stick electrodes are classified under AWS A5.1, the specification for carbon steel electrodes for shielded metal arc welding, and manufacturers print the classification on the package and, in most cases, on the rod itself (see Lincoln Electric’s AWS classification overview). Once you can read it, you can walk into any welding supply house anywhere in the country and compare rods on equal footing.

Anatomy of the Code: E7018, Decoded

The standard four-character form breaks down like this, using E7018 as the example:

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Character	Example	Meaning
Letter 1	E	Electrode for arc welding (SMAW / stick)
Digits 2–3	70	Minimum tensile strength of the deposited weld metal: 70 ksi, or 70,000 psi
Digit 4	1	Welding position(s) the rod is qualified for
Digit 5	8	Type of flux coating and the welding current it runs on

A few extra characters can appear, and they matter:

• A fifth digit (making it a five-digit code such as E8018-C1) adds chemical composition information, which shows up mostly on low-alloy steel electrodes rather than plain carbon steel rods. If you find yourself shopping for those, our guide to alloy steel welding electrodes covers the wider family.
• H designators such as H4, H8, or H16 state the maximum diffusible hydrogen in the weld metal, measured in milliliters per 100 grams of deposited metal. E7018-H4 is a low-hydrogen rod with an even tighter hydrogen ceiling than a plain E7018.
• An R suffix means the covering is moisture-resistant, which is a big deal for low-hydrogen rods stored in humid shops.

That distinction trips up more beginners than any other single point in welding. A rod’s diameter is printed on the box (and is the subject of a completely separate decision), and its recommended amperage range comes from the manufacturer’s chart, not from the classification. What the classification gives you is a reliable, standardized snapshot of performance, and the rest of this article walks through each of those characters one at a time.

Digit by Digit: What Each Number in the Classification Means

Pull a stick rod out of the box and you will usually find a short code like E7018 stamped or printed on the flux near the grip end. That string is not a brand’s model number, and it is definitely not a rod diameter. It is an AWS classification issued under the American Welding Society’s specification for covered carbon steel arc-welding electrodes, AWS A5.1, and every character in it answers a specific question about how the rod will behave once the arc is lit.

A quick note on the process for context: stick welding, formally called shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), uses a consumable flux-coated electrode that carries the current, sustains the arc, and melts into the joint as filler metal. The flux burns into shielding gas and slag to protect the puddle. Lincoln Electric’s AWS classification guide describes the code as one letter, a run of numbers, and occasional suffixes, each with a fixed meaning.

The Four-Digit Framework

A standard classification such as E7018 breaks into four positions:

Position in code	Example (E7018)	What it means
First character	E	Arc-welding electrode. The “E” always leads a stick rod classification.
Digits 2–3 (or 2–4)	70	Minimum tensile strength of the deposited weld metal, in ksi (thousands of psi).
Second-to-last digit	1	Welding positions the rod is qualified for.
Last digit	8	Flux coating type and the welding current(s) it runs on.

Read that way, E7018 translates almost instantly: an electrode, 70,000 psi tensile strength, all-position capable, low-hydrogen iron-powder coating. You already know a great deal about the rod before striking an arc.

What the Strength Digits Do and Do Not Mean

Digits two and three give the minimum tensile strength of the all-weld-metal deposit in ksi, so 60 means 60,000 psi, 70 means 70,000 psi, and 80 means 80,000 psi. The critical qualifier is “all-weld-metal”: the figure describes a machined test specimen cast from the deposited weld itself. It says nothing about the base metal you are welding, nothing about the rod’s diameter, and nothing about amperage. A 1/8-inch E7018 and a 5/32-inch E7018 share the same 70 ksi figure. As Hobart Brothers’ electrode classification article puts it, the strength rating is about the solidified filler, not the joint, which will only be as strong as its weakest combination of weld metal, heat-affected zone, and design.

The Position Digit: Third or Second-to-Last

In a four-digit code the position digit sits just before the coating digit. Only three values matter for carbon steel rods:

• 1 — all positions: flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead.
• 2 — flat and horizontal only.
• 4 — flat (downhand) only.

That single digit decides whether you can weld a bracket overhead or must rotate the work flat. Our All Position Welding Rod Guide: Types, Uses & Tips goes deeper into how position capability plays out on real joints.

The Coating and Current Digit

The final digit identifies coating chemistry and compatible current: 1 is cellulose sodium on DC reverse, 3 is rutile on AC or DC, 8 is low-hydrogen iron powder, typically run on DC reverse but qualified for AC. This is the digit that tells you whether your machine can run the rod at all.

Five-Digit Codes and Hydrogen Suffixes

Codes can carry extra characters that extend the same logic. When a fifth digit appears, such as E8018-C1, it specifies the weld metal’s chemical composition for low-alloy steels rather than plain carbon steel. The letter-number tail (C1, B2, and similar designators) identifies the alloy package, which is where our Alloy Steel Welding Electrodes: Selection, Use & Safety guide picks up the detail.

Letters at the very end mark diffusible hydrogen levels: H4, H8, and H16 indicate the milligrams of hydrogen per 100 grams of deposited weld metal allowed under standard test conditions, so H4 is the driest of the three. Miller Electric’s electrode FAQ confirms the last digit covers both coating type and current, and that hydrogen designators are tracked separately from the base classification.

The Strength Digits: Why 60, 70, and 80 Actually Matter

When scanning the stamp on a stick electrode, the first two digits are often the most overlooked, yet they’re one of the most telling parts of the code. These numbers don’t refer to rod size or amperage. Instead, they tell you the minimum tensile strength of the deposited weld metal itself. In other words, how much pulling force that weld must be able to withstand before failure.

Before breaking these down, it’s worth knowing the units. Tensile strength in welding is measured in pounds per square inch (psi), with kilopounds per square inch (ksi) being used as shorthand. As Lincoln Electric notes, the first two digits of a four-digit electrode classification indicate this minimum tensile strength. For example, an E6010 has a minimum tensile strength of 60,000 psi, or 60 ksi.

The Three Main Tensile Strength Tiers

For the vast majority of covered carbon steel electrodes, you’ll run into three primary strength tiers:

• E60xx (60,000 psi / 60 ksi): These are the workhorses of general fabrication and repair. Rods such as E6010, E6011, E6012, and E6013 all fall into this category.
• E70xx (70,000 psi / 70 ksi): This is by far the most common tier for structural work. The most recognizable example is E7018, which produces weld metal with a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi (70 ksi).
• E80xx (80,000 psi / 80 ksi): Found in higher strength low-alloy applications, these rods are used less frequently in a home shop, but are crucial for specialized, high load joints.

There’s a specific reason why 70,000 psi became the structural standard. When welding common structural plate, such as ASTM A36, you’re working with a base metal that has its own minimum tensile values. By utilizing E70xx electrodes, fabricators can achieve consistent, predictable strength that aligns with widely used structural practices. This is heavily reflected within the AWS D1.1 Structural Welding Code, which prequalifies many joints specifically for E70xx, low-hydrogen electrodes like E7018.

Overmatching vs Undermatching: Stronger Isn’t Always Better

When choosing an electrode, the goal isn’t to pick the highest number possible. It’s to match, or appropriately exceed, the demands of the joint. This comes down to two concepts:

• Undermatching: Using weld metal that is weaker than the base metal (ex: welding A36 with an E6013). For non-structural repairs or brackets with no calculated load, this is often more than sufficient.
• Overmatching: Using weld metal that is stronger than the base metal (ex: welding A36 with an E7018). This is often required for load-bearing, code-governed, or fatigue-prone joints to ensure the weld itself isn’t the weak point.

With that being said, E7018 beats E6013 on strength, but the difference only matters if the joint must carry load. If you’re repairing a non-critical piece of sheet metal or tacking together a decorative project, those extra 10,000 psi of minimum tensile strength provide no real benefit. On the flip side, attempting to rely on E6013 for a critical, load-bearing A36 structural bracket is a gamble that no amount of pretty beads can make up for.

At the end of the day, the strength digits are a minimum requirement, not a competition. For most structural steel, the 70 ksi tier of E7018 hits the sweet spot of strength, toughness, and versatility. Knowing when to utilize it, and when a 60 ksi rod is the smarter choice, is one of the biggest leaps a welder can make from just striking an arc, to welding with intention.

The Position Digit: Flat, Horizontal, Vertical, or Overhead

Now that the strength digits have been deciphered, it’s time to move onto the third character in a stick electrode’s classification. This single number is one of the most important restrictions on the rod, as it determines whether or not you can safely weld in every orientation. While some electrodes are versatile enough to run overhead, others will simply drip out of the joint due to gravity. This is where the position digit comes into play.

What Do The Numbers Mean?

The third digit of an AWS electrode classification dictates what welding positions that rod is approved to be used in. For the vast majority of carbon steel electrodes, you will only see three possible values:

• 1: All positions. This means the electrode can be used in flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead positions.
• 2: Flat and horizontal only. These rods are restricted from vertical and overhead welding.
• 4: Flat only. These rods are limited strictly to the downhand (flat) position.

These classifications are based off of the electrode’s usability, not preference. Factors such as slag fluidity, arc force, and coating weight all go into whether or not a rod can hold itself in a vertical or overhead joint. This is why the American Welding Society (AWS) tests electrodes to these restrictions, as outlined within the AWS electrode classification standards.

Position Terminology: Plate And Fillet

When referring to welding positions, welders will oftentimes use the AWS groove and fillet position codes. These are used to relate an electrode’s capability to a specific joint test. Some of the most common ones to be aware of include:

• 1G: Flat groove weld (plate)
• 2G: Horizontal groove weld (plate)
• 3G: Vertical groove weld (plate)
• 4G: Overhead groove weld (plate)
• 3F: Vertical fillet weld
• 4F: Overhead fillet weld

With this being said, if an electrode has a position digit of “1”, it is qualified to run all of the positions listed above. If it is a “2”, it is only qualified for 1G, 2G, and flat/horizontal fillets. These qualifications are crucial for any form of code work, and are one of the many reasons that All Position Welding Rod selections are highly sought after for repair jobs.

Why Can Some Rods Only Run Flat?

The reasoning behind these restrictions all comes down to one force: gravity. Electrodes that are only rated for flat and horizontal welding tend to have extremely heavy coatings that are rich in iron powder. These coatings produce a large amount of molten slag as well as a high deposition rate. While this is incredible for laying down metal quickly, the molten puddle becomes very fluid and heavy.

When welding vertically or overhead, gravity will pull this molten puddle downwards, causing it to sag, drip, or roll out of the joint entirely. This creates major defects such as undercut, lack of fusion, and excess convexity. Lighter coated rods, such as those with a rutile or cellulose coating, solidify faster and have a tighter arc, allowing them to combat gravity in out of position welds. As explained by Hobart Brothers, the coating type directly ties into the positions that an electrode is capable of running.

Practical Examples And Implications

With the theory out of the way, let’s apply this to some of the most common electrodes that welders use everyday:

• E6010: Position digit “1”. This cellulose rod is an all position electrode, making it a staple for pipe root passes and repairs in any orientation.
• E7018: Position digit “1”. Known for its low hydrogen properties, the E7018 is also an all position rod. This versatility is what makes it the structural standard for critical welds.
• E7024: Position digit “2”. This iron-powder, high-deposition rod is classified for flat and horizontal welding only, and cannot be relied on for vertical or overhead joints.

These examples perfectly showcase the importance of this digit. For a hobbyist welding a bracket overhead in their shop, grabbing an E7024 would be a recipe for frustration. However, an E7018 or E6010 would be more than capable for the task. On the contrary, for a shop welding large fillet beads in the flat position, the E7024 can drastically increase productivity. Whether you’re utilizing the advantages of stick welding for maintenance, or expanding your knowledge towards processes like Aluminum MIG Welding for other projects, matching your electrode’s position rating to your job will always be one of your greatest assets.

At the end of the day, the third digit is your safety net against gravity. By checking for a 1, 2, or 4 before striking an arc, you can ensure your puddle stays where it’s intended to be, every single time.

The Coating and Current Digit: Cellulose, Rutile, or Low Hydrogen

The final digit of a stick rod code is often overlooked, but it’s one of the most practical. While the tensile strength and position digits tell you load capacity and usable positions, the last digit tells you two things at once: the flux coating makeup and the welding current the rod was designed for. As both Miller Welds and Hobart Brothers point out, this single character directly impacts arc behavior and machine compatibility.

The Three Coating Families

Nearly all common SMAW electrodes fall into three families based off of their last digit: cellulose, rutile, or low hydrogen. While package ratings can sometimes be more permissive, the base grouping below holds true for the vast majority of classified rods.

Last digit	Coating type	Typical current
1	Cellulose sodium (organic)	DC reverse (DCEP)
2	Rutile potassium	AC or DC
3	Rutile iron oxide	AC or DC
4	Rutile iron powder	AC or DC
5	Low hydrogen sodium	DC reverse (DCEP)
6	Low hydrogen potassium	AC or DC
8	Low hydrogen iron powder	AC or DC, often DC reverse (DCEP)

More Than Just a Covering

That flux isn’t there for looks. It’s responsible for making shielded metal arc welding possible, which is a large part of Advantages of Stick Welding out in the field. As it burns, the coating provides shielding gas to protect the puddle, forms a layer of slag over the bead, stabilizes the arc, and can add deoxidizers or alloying elements to the weld metal. Simply put, the recipe of that coating is what the last digit is coding for.

Cellulose: Digging Power for Dirty Steel

Rods ending in 1, such as E6010, are cellulose based. When burned, the organic coating produces a fast moving cloud of shielding gas, creating a forceful, digging arc. This allows it to punch through light rust, mill scale, and less than ideal joint prep. The puddle freezes quickly, making it a go-to for root passes and pipe work. These benefits come with tradeoffs, though, as cellulose rods tend to produce more spatter, more fume, and a rougher bead that will need more cleanup.

Rutile: Easy to Strike and Forgiving

Rutile coatings, found on rods ending in 2, 3, and 4 like E6013, are titanium dioxide based. They produce a smooth, stable arc that’s easy to strike and hold, with a flat, attractive bead profile. Many of these also contain iron powder to increase deposition without needing extra amperage. Thanks to their potassium bearing formulas, the vast majority are AC or DC compatible, making them some of the most forgiving rods for general fabrication and for use on older machines.

Low Hydrogen: Crack Resistance Above All

Rods ending in 5, 6, or 8, with E7018 being the most recognizable, are low hydrogen electrodes. Hydrogen is one of the biggest threats to a steel weld, as it can become trapped during solidification and cause delayed cold cracking in hardened heat affected zones. A properly formulated low hydrogen coating limits the amount of hydrogen introduced to the puddle, which is why they’re heavily relied on for structural and load bearing work. However, this advantage is conditional.

Polarity and Matching Your Machine

The current rating tied to the last digit isn’t optional. On DC, DCEP (electrode positive) drives more heat into the work for deeper penetration, while DCEN (electrode negative) drives more heat into the rod for shallower penetration and higher deposition on select passes. Alternating current splits polarity back and forth, allowing certain rods to run on simple transformer machines with no polarity switch at all. A DC only rod, such as many E6010’s, will struggle to stay lit on pure AC, whereas an AC/DC rated rod will run on a wide range of equipment. Above all, always let the rod’s packaging outrank any general rule when pairing it to your machine.

The Common Rods Compared: E6010, E6011, E6012, E6013, E7014, E7018, E7024

Seven electrodes cover the overwhelming majority of stick welding done in home shops, repair yards, and fabrication plants. Once you can decode them, you can predict how each one will behave before you ever strike an arc. As Lincoln Electric’s breakdown of AWS classifications shows, the system is deliberately consistent: same digits, same meaning, rod after rod. And as we covered in Advantages of Stick Welding: Why SMAW Still Wins, this predictability is a big part of why stick remains the go-anywhere repair process.

E6010: The Deep-Penetration Workhorse

Decoded: 60,000 psi tensile strength, all-position capable, high-cellulose sodium coating, DC electrode positive only. The cellulose-rich flux burns into a forceful gas jet that digs aggressively into the base metal. That makes E6010 the classic root-pass rod for open-root pipe and the rod of choice when the steel is rusty, scaled, or otherwise imperfect. The trade-off is a loud, crisp arc, a coarse rippled bead, and fast-freezing slag that demands confident travel speed. It rewards skill and punishes hesitation.

E6011: The Same Bite, Now on AC

Decoded: 60,000 psi, all position, high-cellulose potassium coating, AC or DC. E6011 is designed to run on AC as well as DC, making it a common choice for household 120V stick welders. The potassium in the coating stabilizes an AC arc, so it delivers E6010-style penetration on machines that can’t run DC-only rods. This is the rod behind most farm repairs, bridge maintenance, and “weld it anywhere” emergency work on dirty or corroded steel.

E6012: The Filler and Tack Rod

Decoded: 60,000 psi, all position, rutile (titania) coating, AC or DC. Where E6010 digs, E6012 bridges. It produces a smooth, stable arc with shallower penetration, which makes it excellent for tacking, filling wide gaps, and running beads where deep penetration isn’t wanted. On heavier joints it’s often used as a hot-pass or fill rod ahead of a capping pass.

E6013: The Beginner’s Best Friend

Decoded: 60,000 psi, all position, rutile coating, AC or DC. E6013 electrodes produce a smooth, soft arc with moderate penetration and are widely recommended for beginners. The arc is quiet, forgiving of arc-length variation, and easy to restart. Slag lifts off cleanly, and the bead looks decent even from an unsteady hand. It’s the ideal rod for thin sheet, light-gauge tubing, hobby projects, and sheet-metal work where a digging arc would blow through.

E7014: Fast Fill, Less Cleanup

Decoded: 70,000 psi, all position, iron-powder rutile coating, AC or DC (most commonly DC). The iron powder boosts deposition rate, so E7014 lays down metal noticeably faster than E6013 while still tolerating out-of-position work. Penetration is moderate, and the bead comes out smoother with less spatter than a cellulose rod. It’s a favorite for medium- and heavy-plate fabrication where speed matters but the joint isn’t structurally critical.

E7018: The Low-Hydrogen Structural Standard

Decoded: 70,000 psi, all position, low-hydrogen iron-powder coating, AC or DC. This is the rod used when weld quality and crack resistance are the priorities. As Miller Welds notes, E7018 and similar low-hydrogen electrodes often run best on DC and are used for hard-to-weld metals and quality work. The arc is smooth but forceful, the bead is clean and tough, and the deposited metal resists cracking far better than rutile or cellulose alternatives. It’s the standard for structural steel, pressure work, and load-bearing repairs. For heat-treated and low-alloy applications, the family extends into variants like E8018-C1, covered in our Alloy Steel Welding Electrodes: Selection, Use & Safety guide. Keep one warning in mind: low-hydrogen rods absorb moisture from humid air, so storage discipline is non-negotiable.

E7024: The Flat-Position Speed Demon

Decoded: 70,000 psi, flat and horizontal only, iron-powder rutile coating, AC or DC. The position digit “2” is the giveaway: E7024 cannot be used overhead or vertically. In exchange, its heavy iron-powder coating delivers very high deposition at fast travel speeds, producing smooth, slag-covered beads with minimal spatter. Production shops use it for flat fillet welds on plate and structural shapes where volume is the goal.

Rod	Strength	Position	Penetration	Polarity	Best For
E6010	60 ksi	All	Deep	DC only	Root passes, pipe, dirty steel
E6011	60 ksi	All	Deep	AC/DC	Repair, 120V machines, rusty metal
E6012	60 ksi	All	Shallow	AC/DC	Tacks, gap filling, hot passes
E6013	60 ksi	All	Moderate	AC/DC	Thin sheet, beginners, hobby work
E7014	70 ksi	All	Moderate	AC/DC	Fast fill, medium plate
E7018	70 ksi	All	Moderate	AC/DC (DC preferred)	Structural, critical welds
E7024	70 ksi	Flat/horizontal	Light	AC/DC	High-speed production fillets

Diameter, Amperage, and Polarity: The Numbers That Aren’t on the Code

Here is the part the classification number leaves out. An E7018 tells you the weld metal holds 70,000 psi, runs in any position, and carries a low-hydrogen iron-powder coating. It does not tell you the rod is 3/32 inch or 5/32 inch thick, and it does not tell you where to set the amperage dial. Two rods with identical stamps can behave completely differently because of those missing numbers, which is why plenty of beginners buy the right rod and still ruin the weld.

Rod Diameter Is a Separate Decision

Electrode diameters are measured in inches and printed on the packaging, not in the AWS classification. The sizes you will actually find on a shelf are 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, and 5/32 inch, with 1/8 inch the everyday workhorse for hobby and light structural work. The rule of thumb is blunt: thin material gets thin rods, thick material gets thick rods. A 5/32 rod dumped into 16-gauge sheet will blow a hole straight through it before you finish the first inch.

Diameter	Typical material range	Best use
1/16 in	22–16 gauge sheet	Tacking, thin auto body, light repair
3/32 in	16–10 gauge	Light fabrication, root passes, small brackets
1/8 in	10 gauge to 3/16 in	All-around shop and home work
5/32 in	3/16 in and heavier	Heavy stock, high-deposition fill passes

Amperage: Where the Chart Beats the Guesswork

Amperage follows diameter and base metal thickness, and every manufacturer publishes recommended ranges. Typical published settings look roughly like this:

Diameter	E6013 amps	E7018 amps
3/32 in	40–90 A	60–100 A
1/8 in	75–120 A	110–160 A
5/32 in	100–160 A	150–220 A

Treat those as orientation, not gospel. The authoritative source is always the insert that came with your rods, and both Hobart Brothers and Lincoln Electric publish detailed setting charts based on the AWS A5.1 specification for covered carbon steel electrodes. Coating formulation, iron powder content, and brand all shift the numbers slightly.

The failure modes are predictable. Too few amps and you get a cold, stubborn arc, porosity trapped in the bead, and lack of fusion where the weld sits on the metal instead of biting in. Too many and you get violent spatter, undercut along the bead edges, and burn-through on thin stock. Amperage also drives heat input together with travel speed, so a fast hand at 140 amps can put less total heat into the joint than a slow hand at 100. Rod angle finishes the formula: most rods are pushed or dragged at a 5 to 15 degree angle, while deep-penetration cellulose rods like the E6010 are often held closer to perpendicular as the welder manipulates the arc.

Polarity: Matching the Rod to the Machine

The last digit tells you which currents the electrode is approved for, but not which polarity gives the best result. In general: E6010 runs on DC electrode positive, also called DCEP or reverse polarity, for deep, forceful penetration. E6011 is the AC-capable cousin, which is why it is the go-to rod for 120-volt AC-only machines in garages and farm shops. E6013 and E7014 run on AC, DCEN, or DCEP. E7018 is commonly run on DCEP though qualified for AC as well, and many welders prefer DC for a quieter, more stable arc on low-hydrogen work.

If your machine is DC-only, an AC/DC rod works fine. If your machine is AC-only, a DC-only rod simply will not run, no matter how you set the dial. Knowing that before you buy saves the classic trip back to the supply store.

Setting Your Machine: A Three-Step Walkthrough

1. Choose the diameter first. Match rod thickness to base metal thickness using the table above. When in doubt on thin material, go smaller rather than hotter.
2. Set the amps by chart, then trim by feel. Start mid-range for that diameter, strike an arc on scrap of the same thickness, and adjust.
3. Fine-tune with travel speed and angle. A tall, narrow bead usually needs more heat or slower travel. A flat, wide bead with undercut needs fewer amps or a faster hand.

This is where stick welding shows its character. Unlike processes that demand precise gas setups and spotless material, a stick machine tolerates wind, rust, and imperfect fit-up better than most alternatives, a big part of the advantages of stick welding in field and repair work. As Miller Electric’s electrode guidance puts it, selection and settings are a package deal: the right rod on the wrong setting still makes a bad weld. Master the dial, and the classification number finally delivers what it promised.

Choosing the Right Rod: Matching the Number to the Job

Decoding the stamp tells you what a rod can do; choosing well means matching that capability to the job in front of you. The good news is that the same four characters that looked like alphabet soup on the store shelf also make selection surprisingly systematic. Five quick questions narrow almost any decision to one or two sensible options, and they follow the same logic Lincoln Electric uses when explaining AWS classification.

Five Questions to Ask Before You Grab a Rod

1. What is the base metal, and how thick is it? Sheet, tube and heavy plate behave differently under heat, and the electrode should scale with the section you are fusing.
2. What position is the joint in? Vertical and overhead beads demand a position digit of 1. If you are shaky on what each orientation demands, the All Position Welding Rod Guide breaks them down rod by rod.
3. Does the joint carry load? A decorative gate panel and a trailer hitch mount do not belong in the same decision.
4. What can your machine actually deliver? AC or DC output, available amperage and duty cycle cut the list fast. A 120V welder pulling 90 amps cannot sustain a 1/8-inch 7018 for long.
5. Where are you welding? Wind, dirt and moisture shift the answer more than most beginners expect.

Five Real Jobs, Five Rod Numbers

• Thin sheet metal barbecue frame: E6013. The rutile coating gives a soft, forgiving arc with shallow penetration, so it fills gaps in 16- to 20-gauge steel without blowing through, and the bead comes out smooth enough to leave mostly unground. Here the “60” barely matters; the job is light and cosmetic.
• Rusty trailer repair, outdoors, on a 120V machine: E6011. E6011 is essentially the AC-capable sibling of E6010, a cellulose rod with a forceful arc that digs through rust, mill scale and even light paint, while its fast-freeze puddle solidifies quickly in wind. It also runs on inexpensive AC buzz boxes. On a breezy driveway, a fluid, slag-heavy low-hydrogen rod will fight you the whole way. It is a textbook case for the advantages of stick welding: no gas bottle to drag out, and real tolerance for imperfect cleanup.
• Structural bracket or load-bearing repair: E7018. Low-hydrogen 7018 is the electrode most often specified for structural and load-bearing welds where cracking risk must be minimized. It wants clean, dry metal, DC output and enough amperage to drive a 1/8-inch bar, so check your machine’s duty cycle first.
• Pipe root pass: E6010. The deep-penetration cellulose arc is what pipe welders rely on to bridge a root gap and read the keyhole. E6010 is also favored whenever the steel carries light rust, mill scale or a trace of paint, because the forceful arc burns through contamination instead of drowning in it.
• Production flat fillets: E7024. Iron-powder-rich, flat-only and fast: high deposition on long straight seams where a shop measures output in pounds per hour.

The pattern is consistent. Thickness sets the diameter, position sets the third digit, environment and cleanliness set the last one, and load requirements set the strength digits.

When the Classification Matters Less, and When It Matters Most

On a decorative plant stand or a workshop shelf bracket, fusion and appearance matter far more than tensile rating. Any soundly welded E6013 bead will outlast a botched 7018 every time, and Miller’s electrode guide makes the same practical point: technique often decides the result before the classification does.

The stakes flip once a joint carries weight, sees dynamic load, or falls under inspection. Structural fabrication is governed by codes such as AWS D1.1, which set out which classifications are acceptable for given joint types and service conditions and expect the rod in the holder to match the qualified procedure. At that point the last digit stops being trivia: you document the classification, store low-hydrogen rods properly, and check the certification on the package, following the same classification framework Hobart Brothers describes.

Run the five questions in order and the code usually resolves to a single rod. Master that habit, and reading the stamp turns from a guessing game into a ten-second check you make before every job.

Storage, Safety, and Fume Facts Every Rod Number Should Remind You About

Every character on a stick rod tells you something about how the weld will perform. What most welders miss is that the code also hints at how the rod must be stored, what it will release into the air, and which settings keep it safe. Decoding E7018 versus E6013 is only half the job; handling those electrodes correctly is the other half.

Why Low-Hydrogen Rods Need Storage Discipline

The E in E7018 stands for electrode, but the 8 at the end quietly announces a maintenance requirement. Low-hydrogen coatings are chemically thirsty. They pull moisture straight out of humid shop air, and that moisture breaks down in the arc and drives hydrogen into the weld metal. Remember those optional suffixes from the classification breakdown, H4, H8, and H16? They cap diffusible hydrogen at 4, 8, or 16 millilitres per 100 grams of deposited weld metal. A rod that was H4 straight out of the sealed carton can drift well past that figure after a weekend of open-air storage.

Hydrogen is the enemy of a strong low-hydrogen weld. Trapped hydrogen in a stiff, high-strength joint is the classic recipe for hydrogen-induced cracking, also called cold cracking, which can appear hours after the weld cools. This is why E7018 behaves so differently from E6013, a rutile-coated rod that shrugs off humidity and can live loose in a toolbox.

Practical storage rules are simple:

• Keep low-hydrogen rods in their sealed foil or plastic packaging until you are ready to weld.
• Store opened rods in a heated rod oven or a portable rod caddy oven on jobsites, following the manufacturer’s recommended holding temperature and holding time.
• Rebake rods that have been exposed only according to the electrode manufacturer’s published guidance, since over-baking damages the coating too.
• Date and label opened packages so you know which rods have been exposed, and for how long.

This storage burden is a genuine hidden cost of the low-hydrogen coating. It also shows how misleading a single rating can be: our All Position Welding Rod Guide shows that E6010 and E7018 share an all-positions rating yet demand completely different housekeeping. Step into low-alloy electrodes with fifth-digit classifications such as E8018-C1 and the storage rules get stricter still, which is why dedicated ovens become standard kit in structural shops. Our notes on alloy steel welding electrodes cover that selection and handling side in more depth.

What OSHA Actually Requires for Ventilation

Welding fume is not theoretical. OSHA’s general industry standard for welding, cutting, and brazing states plainly that these operations may produce fumes and gases hazardous to health, and it requires that welders not be exposed to them, pointing to ANSI Z49.1, Safety in Welding, Cutting, and Allied Processes, as the reference for ventilation practice (OSHA 1910.252). The construction standard, OSHA 1926.353, goes further and also requires that the welder’s skin be covered to prevent burns from the intense radiant energy of the arc.

In plain shop terms, that means:

• Work in a ventilated area, or use local exhaust ventilation and fume extractors positioned close to the arc.
• In confined spaces, use mechanical ventilation and respiratory protection, and follow a formal permit and monitoring process.
• Cover exposed skin, because arc radiation causes the same class of burn as a severe sunburn, in minutes.

The Lung Cancer Finding That Changed the Conversation

In October 2017, the International Agency for Research on Cancer concluded that exposure to mild steel welding fume can cause lung cancer, a finding summarised by EU-OSHA’s OSHwiki welding fume page. This was a landmark shift, because it applied to ordinary carbon steel welding, not just stainless or coated steels. Other alloying elements and coatings can add hazards of their own, including manganese and, on stainless work, hexavalent chromium.

The takeaway is not that stick welding should be avoided. SMAW remains popular precisely because the equipment is rugged, portable, and forgiving in the field, as we cover in why SMAW still wins. The takeaway is that exposure control belongs in your routine. OSHA’s Controlling Hazardous Fume and Gases during Welding walks through engineering controls, work practices, and respiratory protection in that order, and it is worth a read before your next long session.

Coating chemistry matters here too. Cellulose-heavy rods such as E6010 and E6011 burn with a forceful, deep-penetrating arc and produce noticeably more visible fume than many low-hydrogen and iron-powder coatings. If you are welding in a garage with the door half closed, that difference is not cosmetic.

PPE and Hot Work: The Two Non-Negotiables

Match your helmet’s shade to the process and amperage, wear leather gloves and a jacket rather than a hoodie, and remove synthetics that can melt onto skin. Then treat the fire side with the same seriousness. OSHA’s general requirement expects combustibles within roughly 35 feet of the work to be removed or protected, and a fire watch should remain after welding finishes because slag and sparks travel, and smouldering material can ignite late. That is the practical meaning of hot work discipline, and it is exactly the kind of detail a rod number should remind you to take seriously.

Common Mistakes When Reading Rod Numbers — and How to Avoid Them

Most bad stick welds blamed on the machine are actually rod selection errors. Beginners grab a box because the label looked familiar or the price was right, never crack open the AWS classification stamped on the package, and then spend an afternoon fighting an arc that was never going to behave. The code is a set of instructions. Ignore it and the rod will punish you for it.

The Seven Classic Errors

1. Treating the number as a size. E7018 is not a diameter, a length, or an amperage. It is a classification: 70,000 psi minimum tensile strength, all positions, low hydrogen iron-powder coating. Rod size (1/16, 5/32, 3/32, 1/8 in) is printed separately, and your settings come from the manufacturer’s chart for that diameter, not from the code. As Lincoln Electric’s AWS classification breakdown explains, every character carries a specific, non-overlapping meaning.
2. Grabbing E7018 the way you’d grab a bigger hammer. A 120V hobby machine often cannot sustain the amperage a 1/8 in 7018 needs, so the rod stalls, sticks, and spatters. Wind is the other trap: low-hydrogen flux is sensitive to drafts, so a breezy outdoor repair is a poor place for it. Save 7018 for a machine with the current to run it and a spot out of the weather.
3. Going overhead with a flat-only rod. A position digit of 4 means flat position only. Run that electrode overhead and gravity does what gravity does: sagging beads, dripping filler, cold root, and fusion that looks fine on the surface and fails under load. Overhead work requires a “1” electrode such as E6010 or E7018. The All Position Welding Rod Guide covers which codes qualify for which positions.
4. Mixing up AC and DC compatibility. Many DC-only electrodes will not run cleanly on an AC-only machine. The result is an unstable, buzzing arc, frequent extinguishing, and failed starts every time you strike. Match the last digit to what your power source actually outputs before you blame the rod. Miller Welds notes that the final digit tells you both coating type and the welding current the electrode is designed for.
5. Assuming 7018 is always the “better” rod. Stronger weld metal is often harder and less forgiving. On thin sheet, an overmatched low-hydrogen rod blows through the base metal, distorts the panel, and leaves a brittle joint where a soft E6013 was the right answer all along. Match strength to the load, not to ego.
6. Ignoring moisture pickup on low-hydrogen rods. 7018 absorbs water from humid shop air, and that hydrogen goes straight back into the weld, where it can cause porosity and cold cracking. Keep opened packages sealed, store them as the manufacturer directs, and re-bake rods that have been sitting out. The OSHA welding fume fact sheet and its companion guidance on 1910.252 ventilation both point back to electrode condition as a controllable exposure source.
7. Welding dirty, rusty, painted, or oily steel with a low-hydrogen rod. Contaminants on the surface reintroduce hydrogen and impurities into the puddle, which is exactly what 7018’s flux chemistry is trying to minimize. Cellulose rods like E6010 are far more tolerant of grime. Grind back to clean metal first, or switch to a rod built for the mess.

Troubleshooting Mini-Guide

Symptom	Likely cause	Fix
Arc sputters, won’t stay lit on AC	DC-only rod on an AC machine	Switch to an AC-capable code (6011, 7014, 7018 AC) or use a DC source
Bead sags or drips overhead	Position digit 4 used out of position	Run a “1” electrode such as E6010 or E7018
Porosity and cracking on clean plate	Moisture-pickup in 7018	Replace or re-bake rods; store sealed
Blow-through on thin material	Overmatched rod, amps too high	Drop to E6013 and reduce current
Slag inclusions on rusty steel	Low-hydrogen rod on contaminated metal	Grind clean, or use E6010/E6011
Stick starts, low penetration	Amperage below the rod chart value	Set by diameter chart, then adjust by arc sound

Cheat Sheet: Decoding Any Stick Rod in Five Seconds

E = electrode for arc welding. Next two or three digits = minimum tensile strength of the deposited weld metal in thousands of psi (60 = 60,000 psi, 70 = 70,000 psi). Penultimate digit = position (1 all positions, 2 flat and horizontal, 4 flat only). Last digit = coating and current (1 cellulose DC+, 3 rutile AC/DC, 8 low hydrogen AC/DC). Fifth digit = chemical composition for low-alloy grades such as E8018-C1. H4/H8/H16 = diffusible hydrogen limit in millilitres per 100 grams of deposited metal. Nothing there tells you diameter, amperage, or travel speed; those still come from the rod chart and your own eyes on the puddle.

The core skill is simple: stop reading rod boxes as products and start reading them as specifications. Once the four digits become a habit, you will know whether a rod belongs on a trailer hitch, a barbecue frame, a pipe root, or a garden ornament before it ever touches the arc. For a broader look at why this process remains the field-repair workhorse despite newer technologies, see Advantages of Stick Welding.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does the number on a stick welding rod mean?

It is an AWS classification code. The E means electrode, the next two digits give minimum tensile strength in ksi (70 = 70,000 psi), the third digit indicates usable weld position, and the last digit identifies the coating type and compatible welding current.

What is the difference between E6013 and E7018?

E6013 is a soft-arc, moderate-penetration rutile rod rated at 60,000 psi that is easy for beginners and tolerant of dirty metal. E7018 is a low-hydrogen rod rated at 70,000 psi with deeper penetration, stronger weld metal, and better crack resistance, but it needs clean material and careful storage.

What does the third digit in a rod number tell me?

The third digit is the welding position rating. A 1 means the rod works in all positions (flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead), a 2 means flat and horizontal only, and a 4 means flat position only.

What does the last digit of a welding rod code mean?

The last digit describes the flux coating type and the current the rod is designed for. For example, 1 is cellulose sodium (DC reverse polarity), 3 is rutile iron oxide (AC or DC), and 8 is low-hydrogen iron powder (often AC or DC, commonly run on DC).

Is E7018 stronger than E6013?

Yes. E7018 weld metal has a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi compared with 60,000 psi for E6013. Strength only matters when the joint carries load — for thin sheet, light repairs, or beginner practice, E6013 is often the better choice.

Can I run E7018 on an AC stick welder?

Many E7018 rods are rated to run on AC or DC, but they perform best on DC electrode positive where the arc is most stable. Always check the rod manufacturer’s package insert for the exact current rating before striking an arc.

Why does my E7018 rod keep sticking or porosity appear in the weld?

Common causes are amps set too low, a contaminated or rusty surface, or a moisture-soaked electrode. Increase amperage within the recommended range, grind the base metal clean, and keep low-hydrogen rods in their sealed packaging or a rod oven.

What does the H4 or H8 suffix on a welding rod mean?

The H designator indicates diffusible hydrogen in milliliters per 100 grams of deposited weld metal — H4 means 4 mL or less, H8 means 8 mL or less. Lower hydrogen reduces the risk of cold cracking in restrained or structural welds.

Which stick rod should a beginner start with?

Most beginners start with E6013 because it runs on AC or DC, strikes easily, produces a smooth bead with modest penetration, and forgives minor technique errors. E6011 is a common second rod for 120V household machines and dirtier work.

Do the rod numbers tell me the rod diameter or amperage?

No. The classification covers strength, position, coating, and current type only. Diameter (such as 1/8 inch or 3/32 inch) and recommended amperage are printed separately on the rod packaging and depend on material thickness and joint design.