How Does Stick Welding Work? A Beginner’s Guide to SMAW

The first time most people see a stick welder work, the reaction is the same: a brilliant blue-white flash, a crackling roar, and a shower of orange sparks that looks less like fabrication and more like controlled chaos. Then the welder taps a rod against a steel plate, gives it a gentle pull, and a puddle of glowing metal forms out of nowhere, fusing two pieces of steel together in seconds. Nothing is being glued or brazed — a bolt of electricity is melting metal at roughly the temperature of the sun’s surface. If you have ever wondered what is actually happening between that arc and your finished weld, this guide walks through the entire process, from the physics of the arc to the chemistry of the flux coating, the machine settings, and the mistakes that trip up almost every beginner.

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1. `https://weldzen.com/all-position-welding-rod/` — all-position welding rod guide
2. `https://openwa.pressbooks.pub/professorrn6893/chapter/wa8-1` — AWS definition / WA curriculum
3. `https://ewi.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Arc-Welding-at-EWI-2012.pdf` — EWI arc welding overview
4. `https://weldzen.com/advantages-of-stick-welding/` — why SMAW still wins

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What Stick Welding Is, and Why We Call It “Stick”

Stick welding is the trade name most people use for shielded metal arc welding, the process AWS formally designates as SMAW and that you will also see written as manual metal arc welding (MMA) in British, Australian, and European documents. In plain language: you clamp a coated metal rod in an insulated electrode holder, strike an electric arc between the rod tip and the steel you are joining, and the arc melts the rod and the base metal into a single molten pool that cools into a solid, load-bearing weld. Nothing is being glued or brazed. The electrode is not merely a tool. It is the filler metal, the flux, and the shielding gas rolled into one consumable stick, and that single design decision explains why the process behaves the way it does and why it has survived every process invented after it.

Why We Call It “Stick”

The nickname is literal. The consumable is a metal core rod with a thick paste of powdered flux baked onto it and then cured so it will not crumble in the bag. Fresh out of the packaging, an E6013 or E7018 looks a lot like a fat stick of chalk. It is easy to grip, easy to feed at a steady angle, and easy to keep moving, and those physical qualities were practical advantages long before anyone used the term “stick welding” in a job title.

Electrode diameters run from 1/16 in (1.6 mm) up to 1/4 in (6.35 mm), with 3/32 in, 1/8 in, and 5/32 in being the sizes most commonly found in working shops. The smaller rods handle thin sheet and light fabrication; the 1/8 in is the classic all-around general purpose rod; the 5/32 in and 1/4 in take on heavy plate, structural work, and pipe. Our all-position welding rod guide breaks down how rod size changes amperage, bead width, and the joint thicknesses each size can handle.

What AWS Actually Means by SMAW

The American Welding Society defines the process as a fusion welding process where coalescence is produced by heat from an electric arc maintained between the tip of a covered electrode and the surface of the base metal. You can read the formal definition and the supporting framework in the Washington State open welding curriculum, which is built around the AWS manual.

For that definition to work, four things have to happen at the same time, every second the arc is lit:

1. An arc is struck and maintained between the electrode tip and the work, generating the heat.
2. Base metal melts. The arc heats the steel until it flows, creating the molten puddle that will become the joint.
3. Filler metal is added. The electrode itself melts and feeds into the puddle, so the weld is built up rather than relying purely on the base metal flowing together.
4. The puddle is shielded. As the coating decomposes it releases a protective gas that pushes the atmosphere away, and the flux itself melts into slag that floats on top and slows cooling.

Strip out any one of those four and the weld fails. That is the whole logic of the process.

Where Stick Welding Still Rules

Modern high-production shops overwhelmingly run MIG, flux core, or TIG. But there are corners of the trade where stick is still the first and often only sensible choice:

• Field repair and maintenance, where the power is a generator, the steel may be rusted, and the work is a pipeline, a bracket, a trailer frame, or a tank.
• Pipe work, especially out-of-position joints that cannot be rolled or rotated, where a self-shielded flux core gun would be too heavy and a TIG torch too delicate.
• Structural and shipbuilding steel, where thick plate, heavy multipass fillets, and out-of-position welding are the norm.
• Mining, oil and gas, and utilities, where equipment gets hauled to the job and has to work on unreliable power.
• Farm equipment and heavy machinery repair, where downtime matters more than cosmetic bead appearance.
• Thin sheet metal, where a low amperage, small rod, and quick touch can go head to head with MIG for control on 16 gauge and lighter material.

Stick is still the default for all-position work, field welding, joints that are out of position, and joints with poor fit-up, because it tolerates rough preparation, awkward access, and an operator holding the work in a trench or on a ladder. More of the reasoning is laid out in our piece on why SMAW still wins.

What You Give Up

Stick welding is popular partly because it is forgiving, but it is not efficient. Know the trade-offs going in:

Characteristic	Reality
Equipment cost	Lowest of any arc process. A usable machine, a holder, a ground clamp, and a rod are a modest outlay.
Versatility	Enormous. Works on almost any ferrous metal, in any position, indoors or out, on a generator.
Portability	Excellent. Everything fits in a pickup bed, which is why it dominates site work.
Skill demand	High. The operator controls arc length, travel angle, puddle size, and speed by hand on every pass.
Deposition rate	Low. You melt one rod at a time, and roughly 20 to 40 percent of the electrical energy ends up as spatter and fume rather than in the joint.
Fume and slag	Highest of the common processes. Slag must be chipped between passes, and fume extraction matters.

A Very Short History

Electric arcs had been known since the early 1800s, but a bare electrode was a dead end. The atmosphere sucked nitrogen and oxygen into the molten pool, and welds came out brittle and porous. The breakthrough came in the early twentieth century with the flux-coated electrode, which wrapped the rod in a baked coating that simultaneously shielded the arc, stabilized it, and fed deoxidizers and alloying elements into the deposit. That combination, not the arc itself, is what made arc welding commercially viable and turned it into an industrial process.

SMAW is still the oldest of the common arc processes, and it is the only one where the consumable does all four jobs at once. Everything else in this guide, from the physics of the arc to the chemistry of the coating, comes back to that fact.

The Physics: How an Electric Arc Melts Metal at 10,000 Degrees

Every stick weld starts the same way: with an electrical arc. However, this is far more than a spark jumping across air. It is a superheated tunnel of plasma that can reach temperatures hot enough to melt steel in an instant. To understand why, you have to look at the circuit that creates it.

The Welding Circuit

For current to flow in Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), a closed loop must be completed. This circuit is made up of a few simple, yet vital components:

• The power source: This is your welder. It transforms incoming power into the high-amperage, low-voltage output needed to sustain an arc.
• The electrode holder (stinger): This grips the consumable electrode and safely passes current to it.
• The electrode: The flux-coated rod that not only provides filler metal, but also acts as one of the terminals for the arc.
• The work clamp: Attached to the base metal, this is the return path for electricity.
• The cables: Heavy duty leads connecting all of the above to complete the loop.

With the work clamp secured to clean metal and the electrode in your stinger, all that is left is the arc gap. Bring the rod within a few millimeters of the plate, strike it, and the circuit is complete.

Plasma, Not a Spark

Air is normally an insulator, so current will not simply “jump” across an open gap. Once enough voltage is applied, the intense heat and electrons rip electrons off the surrounding gas molecules, creating a mass of ionized gas, also known as plasma. This plasma column becomes electrically conductive, allowing current to flow continuously through it.

It is this resistance against the current flowing through that plasma column that generates the extreme heat. The welding arc is commonly cited to reach between 6,000 to 11,000 degrees Fahrenheit (3,316 to 6,093 degrees Celsius). This is hot enough to melt the base metal and the tip of your electrode simultaneously, forming the weld puddle.

The Three Zones of the Arc

While it looks like one blinding ball of light, the SMAW arc is split into three distinct zones:

• The cathode zone (work end): This is where electrons are emitted and directed across the arc. A large amount of heat is concentrated here.
• The arc column: The glowing plasma stream itself. This is the conductor that carries the current between the two terminals.
• The anode zone (electrode end): The positively charged particles strike the tip of the electrode, superheating and melting it into droplets of filler metal.

According to AWS welding training material, the SMAW arc splits heat roughly 50/50 between the work end and the electrode end. This even split is a defining trait of stick welding. By contrast, short-arc TIG concentrates far more heat at the workpiece, whilst MIG processes can vary depending on transfer mode. This is one of the core reasons why stick welds tend to need heavier plates to absorb all of that heat, as opposed to some of the more thermally concentrated processes. This heat characteristic also plays into some of the advantages of stick welding out in the field.

Volts, Amps, Arc Length, and Heat Input

Three factors control the size of your puddle and the amount of distortion: amperage, arc voltage, and travel speed.

Amperage is the amount of current flowing through the circuit and is directly dialed in on most stick welders. Travel speed is simply how fast you move the electrode along the joint. The one that trips up most beginners, however, is arc voltage. On a stick machine, arc voltage is not a setting you dial in, it is a result of arc length. The shorter your arc, the lower your voltage. The longer your arc, the higher your voltage.

All of these combine to create heat input. A widely used calculation is: (Voltage x Amps x 60) ÷ Travel Speed (inches per minute) = Joules per inch. Increase any of these and you’ll add more heat into the joint, expanding your puddle and increasing your chances of distortion or burn through. Decrease them, and you risk a cold, lumpy bead with poor fusion.

The golden rule is this: maintain the shortest possible arc that is still stable. Do so, and you’ll keep your voltage in check, control your heat input, and put far more of that 10,000-degree plasma to use where it matters most, the weld itself.

Inside the Electrode: Flux Coating, Shielding Gas, and Slag

A stick electrode isn’t just a filler rod. It’s a metal core wrapped in a baked-on flux coating that does almost all of the work. Strip that coating away, and all you’re left with is bare steel. It’s this coating that allows shielded metal arc welding to function without an external gas cylinder, protecting the weld, controlling the arc, and shaping the bead all at the same time.

The Four Jobs of the Flux Coating

As the arc burns, the coating is constantly breaking down to serve four purposes:

1. Shield the puddle. Certain ingredients decompose and release a shielding gas that floods the arc zone, pushing oxygen and nitrogen away from the molten metal.
2. Stabilize the arc. Other additives tune the electrical behavior of the arc, keeping it stable and preventing it from wandering or snuffing out.
3. Add deoxidizers and alloys. Elements like manganese, silicon, and titanium help clean the puddle and can add strength or corrosion resistance to the weld. This is a major factor when considering alloy steel electrode selection.
4. Form slag. The remaining flux melts into a liquid glass that floats on top of the puddle, insulating it, holding its shape, and slowing its cooling rate.

From Strike to Solid Bead

All of this happens within seconds of striking an arc. The reaction can be broken down into a simple sequence:

1. Ignition: The arc forms between the electrode tip and the workpiece.
2. Decomposition: Heat breaks down the coating, driving off moisture and releasing shielding gas.
3. Shielding: The gas envelops the arc, displacing the surrounding atmosphere.
4. Deposition: The steel core melts, sending droplets of filler metal into the puddle.
5. Covering: The flux turns to liquid slag and floats to the surface.
6. Hardening: The slag cools into a brittle crust that you’ll need to chip away. These reactions are covered in depth within standard welding metallurgy chapters.

Slag: Necessary, But Never Left Behind

Slag serves an important purpose while the weld is hot, but it has no structural value once cooled. It must be chipped and brushed off between passes to allow proper fusion. If left trapped, it creates slag inclusions, a defect that AWS visual inspection criteria view as unsound. For structural or pressure work, inclusions are more than cosmetic, they can be grounds for rejection.

Moisture and Hydrogen Risk

The coating is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb moisture from the air. When welded, that moisture breaks down into hydrogen and oxygen. Hydrogen is the biggest concern, as it can dissolve into the weld metal and cause porosity or hydrogen-induced cracking as the bead cools.

Low-hydrogen electrodes, such as E7018, are formulated to minimize this risk. For that reason, electrode manufacturers recommend holding them at roughly 250 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit in a rod oven before use. Once a coating has absorbed water, simply drying it is not a full cure.

Coating Families and Their Behavior

Not all coatings behave the same. Each family changes penetration, arc feel, and deposition rate, all of which play a role when choosing from an all position rod guide.

Coating family	Common rods	Arc character	Typical use
Cellulosic	E6010, E6011	Deep, digging arc with strong penetration	Root passes, pipe, all-position work
Rutile / Titania	E6012, E6013	Soft, forgiving arc with easy slag removal	General purpose mild steel, sheet metal
Basic (Lime)	E7016, E7018	Quiet, stable, low-hydrogen arc	Structural, heavy fabrication, pressure work
Iron Powder	E7014, E7024	Smooth arc with high deposition	Flat and horizontal, fast fill on thicker stock

Fume Considerations

The coating isn’t just responsible for the weld, it’s also a source of fume. Welding fumes can come from the base metal, any applied coatings like paint or galvanizing, the core, and the flux coating itself. According to OSHA’s welding safety factsheet, these sources all need to be identified and controlled. Coated or galvanized steel in particular can introduce hazards separate from the mild steel underneath, making ventilation a necessity, not an afterthought.

The Equipment: Power Sources, Holders, Cables, and PPE

Stick welding asks less of you gear-wise than any other arc process. No gas cylinders, no wire feeder to thread, no torch tips to swap. A power source, an electrode holder, a work lead with a clamp, and a box of rods is genuinely all you need to put steel together. It is a big reason SMAW still wins in the field: a shop can be productive with gear that fits in a pickup bed.

Why Stick Needs a Constant-Current Machine

Stick welding runs on a constant-current (CC) power source, and the reason is built into the arc. When arc length changes, resistance across the gap changes, so voltage must adjust. On a CC machine that produces a matching change in amperage: lengthen the arc and current drops, shorten it and current climbs. Welders call this self-adjusting, and it is why a stick welder holds a consistent bead on a rusty pipe with no electronics at all.

Contrast that with the constant-voltage (CV) machines behind MIG and TIG. A CV source holds voltage steady and pushes current as needed, which suits a wire feed but makes a mess on stick. Run a rod on a MIG machine set to CV and you get an unstable, sputtering arc.

Machine type	How it behaves	Best fit
AC transformer (“buzz box”)	Rugged, simple, cheap. Audible hum, wide puddle, hard to start	Budget farm and repair work
DC rectifier	Smoother arc than AC; heavy iron	Shops with space and power
Inverter	Fast current response, focused arc	Most new purchases

Three features matter most to a beginner on an inverter. Hot start boosts current for a fraction of a second at strike so the electrode does not freeze to the plate. Arc force nudges current up as arc voltage rises, keeping the arc from wandering. Lift mode lets a MIG machine run in stick mode by striking on contact and releasing the gas. All three make a beginner’s life far easier. Many American machines also put amperage control on the holder, with an on/off switch for 20/60/100 or 40/80/120 amps, so you can dial amperage without leaving the joint. See our welding equipment guide for what matters at the counter.

Holders, Work Leads, and Clamps

The electrode holder, usually called a stinger, is a spring-loaded insulated jaw that clamps the rod. Buy one sized for your electrodes, with an adjustment screw that works with gloves on, and keep it free of packed spatter. Holder, work lead, and clamp complete the welding circuit every arc process depends on.

The work lead and clamp close the circuit back to the machine. Clamp to the piece you are welding or to a heavy fixture near the joint, and keep the jaws clean and tight. A sloppy connection steals voltage, widens the arc, and gives you a wandering, spattery weld. Never attach the work lead to a ladder, scaffold, or vehicle body.

Personal Protective Equipment

Arc light damages eyes fast and permanently, so never economize on the helmet. A passive shade 10 helmet suits most stick work on plate, shade 8 handles thin sheet, and shade 13 or higher suits heavy work in close quarters. Auto-darkening helmets switch in milliseconds and are easier to wear all shift. Add a helmet bib so light does not leak in at the neck.

The rest of the clothing matters just as much. Wear flame-resistant coveralls or a leather apron over long sleeves, and keep melt-prone synthetic fleece away from the arc. Leather gauntlet gloves protect hands from heat and spatter, safety-toe leather boots protect feet from hot slag, and earplugs handle the noise. For fume, a P100 respirator is right when ventilation is poor, since fume from stainless and coated steels carries hexavalent chromium and manganese, and a dust mask filters neither. OSHA’s welding safety fact sheet sets out the full PPE and ventilation expectations.

Storing Electrodes and Maintaining the Machine

Low-hydrogen electrodes such as the E7018 are hygroscopic: they pull moisture from the air and feed hydrogen into the weld, which invites cracking. Store them in a rod oven at the temperature and humidity the manufacturer specifies, and recondition them before use per those instructions. A damp rod in a cold pipe spool is a rework ticket.

Keep machine vents clear of dust, and replace cables and connectors the moment insulation cracks. A frayed work lead is a serious hazard, not a cosmetic one. Loose strands can arc to the holder or clamp, flash-burn you, ignite a fire, and weld themselves into a lump you have to cut off. Replace the cable rather than tape it.

Choosing Electrodes: How to Read an AWS Classification Code

Walk into any supply counter and ask for “a good stick,” and you get a shelf of grey rods that look identical. The only thing separating them is a code on the packaging, and that code tells you how the rod behaves. Learn four digits and you can pick the right electrode with confidence.

Cracking the E7018 Code

Take the most common structural electrode in North America, E7018, and pull it apart:

• E means a covered (flux-coated) electrode for stick welding. An “F” means flux-cored wire, and an “ER” prefix means solid wire or rod consumed by a wire-feed torch.
• 70 is the tensile strength of the deposited weld metal, in thousands of pounds per square inch (ksi). E60xx is 60 ksi, E70xx is 70 ksi, E80xx is 80 ksi. Low-carbon steel typically needs a matching 60 or 70 ksi electrode, while higher-strength steels require the E80xx series.
• 1 means the electrode is approved for all positions: flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead. A “0” in that slot (E7010, for example) limits you to flat and horizontal work only.
• 8 identifies the coating type and the type of current it works with. This is where the real personality of the rod lives.

The AWS system in full is described in the AWS A5.1 welding electrode classification standard, and Miller’s guide to common stick electrodes is a good free reference for the practical differences.

The Last Digit Decides Everything

• 0 — cellulose sodium (E6010). Deep penetration, DC electrode positive only.
• 1 — cellulose potassium (E6011). Strong arc, works on AC or DCEP.
• 2 — titania or rutile, sodium (E6012). Fast, smooth, AC or DCEP.
• 3 — titania or rutile, potassium (E6013). The beginner’s favorite. AC, DCEP, or DCEN.
• 4 — iron powder (E7024). High deposition rate, AC, DCEP, or DCEN.
• 8 — iron powder low hydrogen (E7018). The workhorse. AC or DCEP.

Six Rods You Should Know

Electrode	Amps (3/32 in / 1/8 in)	Polarity	Penetration	Best For
E6011	60–90 / 80–125	AC or DCEP	Deep	General fabrication, dirty steel, outdoor work
E6013	40–80 / 70–120	AC, DCEP, or DCEN	Shallow	Beginners, thin sheet, hobby work
E6010	40–80 / 70–120	DCEP only	Very deep	Pipe, root passes, DC-only machines
E7018	70–120 / 90–160	AC or DCEP	Medium, low hydrogen	Structural steel, code work, all positions
E7024	110–150 / 130–225	AC, DCEP, or DCEN	High deposition	Fast flat and horizontal fillets on 1/4 in plate and up
E7020	70–120 / 90–160	DCEP or AC	Medium	Heavy plate, high-heat structural fills

The E6011 and E6013 amperage ranges above come from Hobart Brothers electrode data, and manufacturers vary slightly, so always check the chart on the rod’s box.

Why E7018 Rules Code Work

E7018 is the standard low-hydrogen electrode for structural and code work because its weld metal has high impact properties, including in cold weather. Low hydrogen matters because moisture trapped in the coating can cause hydrogen cracking, a delayed failure that can show up days after the job looks perfect. E7018 is also the electrode meant to live in a rod oven, which keeps the coating dry on site.

E7024 takes over when speed is the priority. Its high iron powder content increases deposition rate, and it is commonly used for high-speed horizontal and flat fillet welds on plate at least 1/4 inch thick.

Specialty Electrodes

• Stainless (E308L, E316L): the “L” means low carbon, which helps resist corrosion. Match the electrode to the base metal and expect a slag-covered bead similar to stainless MIG.
• Cast iron (E4043, E Ni-CI): nickel-iron formulations tolerate the heat input that cast iron hates. E4043 is versatile and machines easily; nickel rods are the fallback for dirty or badly cracked iron.
• Aluminum (E5356, ER4043): aluminum is not a natural stick-welding metal because it conducts heat and oxides stubbornly. It works, but many shops reach for aluminum flux core or aluminum MIG instead, especially for repair work.
• Nickel alloys: Inconel and nickel filler metals are chosen to match the base alloy and service temperature.

For alloy and stainless work, alloy steel welding electrode selection covers the chemistry matching in more detail.

The Practical Rule

Choose an electrode by answering four questions in order. Match the base metal first: carbon steel gets E60xx or E70xx, stainless gets E308L, cast iron gets E4043. Then match the position: vertical and overhead work demands an all-position rod, the “1” digit. Then match the thickness: thin sheet favors a fast-shallow E6013, while plate over a quarter inch rewards E7024 or E7020. Finally, match the machine you actually own: DC-only boxes rule out the AC-friendly cells, and a buzz box works, but an inverter with hot start and lift mode makes E7018 much easier to strike.

One more thing worth knowing: the all-position rod guide covers the specific rods that hold up when you are stuck in a vertical-up or overhead position, which is where most beginners struggle first.

Buy a small box of three or four rods, learn their arc sound and bead shape, and you will stop guessing at the counter. Once the code makes sense, choosing becomes simple arithmetic.

Amperage, Polarity, and Arc Length: Dialing In Your Machine

With stick welding, there is no gas valve, wire feed, or trigger to rely on. Your results come down to just three things: amperage, polarity, and arc length. Get all three working together and a rod will lay a clean, even bead. Get even one off and you’ll be fighting spatter, stubbing, or lack of fusion.

Amperage: Setting the Heat

Stick welders are constant current machines, meaning they hold the amperage you set while arc voltage adjusts to fit the gap. A reliable starting point is about one amp per 0.001 in of electrode diameter. For example, a 1/8 in rod will sit near 125 amps, while a 3/16 in rod will sit near 185 amps. These are starting points only. Always check the rod carton or the AWS electrode catalog for the exact operating range of your specific classification.

Rod diameter	Typical operating range	Where it fits
3/32 in (0.094 in)	60-95 A	Thin material, light fabrication, all-position work
1/8 in (0.125 in)	90-130 A	The shop standard; plate up to about 1/4 in
5/32 in (0.156 in)	130-175 A	Heavier plate and structural work
3/16 in (0.188 in)	180-240 A	Thick plate, pipe, and heavy structural fabrication

Crank the amps too high and you risk burn-through, undercut, heavy spatter, or a mushroomed electrode tip. Drop them too low and you’ll run into stubbing, cold lumpy beads, and lack of fusion. This becomes even more critical with specialty alloys, a topic that is covered further in our alloy steel welding electrodes guide.

Polarity: Directing the Heat

Polarity decides which side of the arc gets the majority of the heat, and the two DC options serve very different purposes.

DCEP (direct current electrode positive, or reverse polarity) pushes more heat into the base metal. This gives deeper penetration, a more stable arc, and a tighter bead. DCEN (direct current electrode negative, or straight polarity) pushes more heat into the electrode. It melts faster with shallower penetration, making it useful for thin sheet or light-gauge stainless where excess heat can cause burn-through.

Electrode	Polarity	Notes
E6010	DCEP (or AC)	Cellulosic, deep penetration. DCEP is needed for its intended arc behavior.
E6011	DCEP or AC	Cellulosic and more forgiving on AC machines.
E6013	DCEP or AC	Smooth arc, low spatter, and easy cleanup.
E7018	DCEP preferred, AC acceptable	Low hydrogen, the go-to for many structural applications.

Never guess on cellulosic rods. Running an E6010 or E6011 on the wrong polarity will result in a wild, spattery arc with poor penetration, just as Miller’s guide to common electrodes explains. For help matching a rod to your position and polarity, our all position welding rod guide is a solid starting point.

Arc Length: The Setting With No Knob

Arc length is pure technique. Your target is a short arc, roughly the diameter of the electrode you’re using. For a 1/8 in rod, that means holding the tip about 1/8 in away from the puddle.

Pressing the rod into the work will short the circuit and cause stubbing. Stretching it out will do the opposite, raising voltage, widening and flattening your bead, increasing spatter and fumes, and thinning out your arc’s shielding action. This can allow air into the molten pool and raise the risk of porosity. As welding fundamentals references consistently show, arc length and travel speed are the two variables you’ll manage most by feel. A short arc will also improve melt-off rate, so all three settings feed into each other.

Heat Input and Travel Speed

All of these factors come together as heat input. It determines distortion, the width of the heat affected zone, and your chance of burn-through. In imperial units, the standard calculation is:

Heat input (kJ/in) = (volts × amps × 60) ÷ (travel speed in in/min × 1,000)

You control your amps and travel speed directly, while arc length controls your voltage. Cranking up amps without picking up travel speed can burn through thin material in seconds. Going too slow will soak the base metal, leaving a wide, soft, and highly distorted bead.

It’s also worth keeping productivity in mind. Manual SMAW with a 1/8 in rod typically consumes only about 2 to 4 lbs of electrode per hour, compared to roughly 5 to 9 lbs per hour for 0.045 in GMAW or FCAW, and 10 to 14 lbs per hour for submerged arc welding. Stick trades speed for versatility and portability, which is exactly why the advantages of stick welding still hold up on job sites today.

A Workable Dial-In Sequence

1. Verify: Confirm the rod classification and its required polarity before striking an arc.
2. Set: Set polarity first, then amperage from the rod chart rather than from memory.
3. Prep: Clean your work and clamp the work lead directly to bare metal.
4. Strike: Strike an arc and hold a short arc, listening for a steady crackle.
5. Drive: Set travel speed by watching the puddle, aiming for a flat bead with a slight crown.
6. Tweak: Change one variable at a time and write down what works for your next job.

Step by Step: How to Run a Stick Weld from Start to Finish

The key to a solid stick weld isn’t speed, it’s sequence. Following the steps below in order will save you time grinding and greatly cut down on defects.

1. Prepare the Joint

Start with a clean base metal. Use a grinder, wire brush, or sandpaper to remove any paint, rust, oil, grease, or mill scale from the weld area. Any of these can cause porosity and prevent proper fusion.

Next, fit your pieces up. For a butt joint, a gap around 1/8 inch is a safe starting point for a 1/8-inch rod, though some procedures call for zero gap. Be sure to reference your all-position welding rod guide for any fit-up allowances for your specific electrode family. Finally, tack the joint with a couple of small tacks, clamping as needed to keep everything aligned.

2. Set the Machine

Set your amperage for your rod diameter and position, confirm your polarity, and attach your ground clamp to clean, bare steel. Whenever possible, clamp directly to the workpiece, as a dirty connection will cause erratic arc behavior. Decide if you’ll be doing a single pass or a multi-pass weld at this time, as this will dictate any preheat or interpass needs.

3. Strike the Arc

To ignite the arc, you have three methods:

• Striking: Scratch the electrode across the plate like a match.
• Tapping: Touch the electrode to the work, lift it slightly, and break the circuit to ignite the arc.
• Drag: Strike and slide the electrode along the plate to light it.

Most beginners find a light tap or drag the most consistent. No matter which you use, you must pull the electrode away after contact to create the arc gap.

4. Control Angles, Arc Length, and the Puddle

For flat or horizontal fillets, aim for the electrode to be split at about 45 degrees between the two pieces. In vertical-up, tilt 10 to 20 degrees into the direction of travel. In vertical-down, push slightly forward. Always keep a slight drag towards the leading edge of the puddle.

Arc length is the most important variable. Keep it short, roughly equal to the diameter of your electrode. A short arc will give you a tight crackle, a controlled puddle the size of a dime to a quarter, and far less spatter. If the puddle grows too large, speed up or adjust your amperage. If it becomes a pinpoint, slow down.

5. Fill the Crater

As you reach the end of your bead, do not pull away immediately. Pause for a moment to fill the crater with molten metal, then break the arc. Skipping this is one of the most common causes of end-of-bead cracks. A simple trick is to flick your electrode slightly back into the crater as you break the arc.

6. Choose Stringers or Weaves

For most passes, use a stringer bead. It’s a straight pass with little to no side-to-side motion, uses less heat, and produces less distortion. Save weave beads for wide fillets, bridging larger gaps, or building up sidewalls, as their increased filler metal deposits much more heat.

7. Adjust for Position

• Flat: Work slightly ahead of the puddle and let the arc do most of the work.
• Horizontal: Point the arc slightly uphill into the leading edge to counteract gravity pulling the puddle down.
• Vertical-up: Keep a short arc and control your travel to allow the bead to build up without the puddle running ahead of you.
• Vertical-down: Point the arc down and drag at a steady pace to keep a narrow, controlled bead.

8. Control Heat with Preheat, Interpass, and Sequence

Thin, clean mild steel often needs no preheat. However, thick plate, cold weather, restrained joints, or higher-strength steels will require it to slow cooling and allow hydrogen to escape. For multi-pass welds, keeping your interpass temperature under the limits of your procedure is vital to limit stress and distortion.

For guidance on these variables, refer to procedure specifications such as AWS B2.1 for carbon steel SMAW, or this instructional chapter on SMAW procedure variables. For any structural work, AWS D1.1/D1.1M, the Structural Welding Code for Steel, is the governing standard and requires qualified procedures and welders.

To combat distortion, use techniques such as the back-step method, alternating sides on T-joints, or strategic fixturing. For a look into why these methods still matter in the field, take a look at why SMAW still wins.

9. Slag Removal and Inspection

Once the bead is cool enough to handle, knock off all slag with a chipping hammer, followed by a wire brush. Leftover slag creates inclusions and stress concentrations that can lead to cracking.

Inspect your finished bead with good lighting. Watch for undercut, porosity, underfill, heavy spatter, or an improper profile. A correct bead should have even toes with a slight convex profile, with no visible voids or trapped slag. With practice of this exact order, your stick welds will become far more consistent and reliable.

The Ten Most Common Stick Welding Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)

Most stick welding issues can be tracked down by the arc itself. Before cutting a joint apart, look to your rod, machine, or prep work. With that in mind, here are the ten mistakes that come up the most, along with what causes them and how to correct them.

1. The Electrode Sticks and the Arc Will Not Strike

A rod freezing to the plate is most often tied to low open-circuit voltage, a machine without hot start, or an improper strike. Use hot start and lift mode if available, and try a quick scrape-and-drag strike instead of stabbing and holding the rod down. For more specifics, refer to Miller’s guide to why common electrodes stick.

2. Running the Rod on the Wrong Polarity

A wandering arc, excess spatter, or a rod cooking at the holder can all point to polarity. Many 1/8 in E6013 and E7018 rods run best on DCEP (electrode positive). DCEN can be used deliberately for thin sheet or some stainless applications, but it isn’t a default. Always check your holder label against the machine switch before changing anything else.

3. Too Much Amperage

If the puddle spits, the crater caves in, toes undercut, or thin plate burns through, your amps are likely too high. Drop them down while keeping a steady travel speed. A general starting point is around 1 amp per 0.001 in of electrode diameter, though published ranges differ by manufacturer. The AWS classifications are the place to check accepted operating ranges for your rod.

4. Not Enough Amperage

A narrow, cold, lumpy bead with minimal penetration and a stalling rod usually means not enough heat. Raise the amperage until the puddle flows and wets into the joint. For alloy steels, it’s worth starting with a low-hydrogen rod, as outlined in the alloy steel welding electrode selection guide.

5. Holding the Arc Too Long

In stick welding, arc voltage is determined by arc length, not a separate voltage dial. Holding it too long creates excess volts and heat, leading to a wide, flat, noisy bead with more spatter and fume. Keep your arc length to about one electrode diameter for the most controlled results.

6. Welding on Dirty Metal

Mill scale, rust, paint, or oil will cause the puddle to sit on top of the plate, creating porosity and slag pockets. Grind back to bright metal and degrease before striking an arc. Never weld over galvanized or lead-based coatings due to the inhalation hazard, as noted in OSHA’s welding fact sheet.

7. A Bad Work Clamp Connection

If the arc wanders mid-pass or the bead depth changes for no apparent reason, check your ground. Clamp to clean, bare metal as close to the joint as possible. Avoid clamping to paint, rust, grease, or a flimsy offcut that can’t carry current, and replace any frayed work leads.

8. Weaving Too Fast, or Too Slow

Weaving too fast gives a lumpy, irregular bead with cold toes and poor penetration. Weaving too slow piles up heat, leading to a narrow bead, undercut, or burn-through. Let your weave follow the puddle and keep a consistent travel speed. Different rods have different levels of forgiveness, which is broken down in the all position welding rod guide.

9. Not Filling the Crater

A small dimple left at the end of a bead is one of the most common starting points for end-of-weld cracks. At the end of your pass, stop travel and hold the arc in place to fill the crater before breaking it. Some rods, such as E7018 and E7024, are more forgiving with crater fill, but this step should never be skipped.

10. Leaving Slag in the Weld

Skipping your chipping hammer and wire brush allows trapped slag to become inclusions, which can lead to rejected welds. It also makes striking the arc for the next pass far more difficult. Clean between every pass, and give your finished bead a final brush.

Symptom to Fix at a Glance

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What you see	Likely cause	What to do
Rod sticks, arc will not strike	Low open-circuit voltage	Enable hot start; scrape-and-drag strike
Wandering arc, heavy spatter	Wrong polarity	Match holder label to machine switch
Spitting puddle, undercut, burn-through	Amperage too high	Lower amps, hold travel speed
Cold, lumpy bead, poor penetration	Amperage too low
Wide, flat, noisy bead, extra fume	Arc too long	Shorten to one electrode diameter
Slag pockets, lack of fusion	Scaled or dirty base metal	Grind to bright metal, degrease
Bead changes mid-pass, arc chases	Poor work clamp connection	Clean clamp point near the joint
Lumpy bead or burn-through	Weaving too fast or too slow	Weave with the puddle, steady speed
Crack at the end of the bead	No crater fill	Hold the arc to fill the crater
Inclusions in the finished weld	Slag left between passes	Chip and brush every pass

Listening to the Arc

Your eyes aren’t the only diagnostic tool. One study evaluating 400 SMAW weld beads, 200 acceptable and 200 defective, welded with 1/8 in AWS E6013 electrodes on A36 plate, found that features in the arc’s sound spectrum can classify bead quality (acoustic analysis of the SMAW arc). The same work notes that manual SMAW carries substantial operator-induced variability in arc length, electrode manipulation and heat input, which produces unstable metal transfer, lack of fusion, excessive spatter and surface discontinuities (operator variability in SMAW). In plain terms, the noise your welder makes is data. A trained ear hears a bad bead long before an inspector sees it.

Fix the cause, not the symptom, and the bead will take care of itself. Once the arc behaves, stick welding rewards you as much as any process on the market, for the reasons laid out in our guide to the advantages of stick welding.

Stick Welding vs. MIG, TIG, and Flux Core: When to Use Which

When it comes down to it, there isn’t a “do it all” welding process. Each method has its strengths, and choosing the right one can be the difference between a quick, solid repair, or fighting your machine for hours. For this reason, it’s best to weigh out the advantages of stick welding against the competition: GMAW (MIG), FCAW (Flux Core), and GTAW (TIG).

Head to Head Comparison

The clearest way to see the differences is by looking at real world performance. According to comparative process data presented by welding engineers, manual SMAW and GTAW deposit roughly 2 to 4 lbs/hr with a 1/8 in rod, versus 5 to 9 lbs/hr for 0.045 in GMAW/FCAW, and up to 10 to 14 lbs/hr for SAW. While stick may be slower, speed isn’t always king.

Factor	SMAW (Stick)	GMAW (MIG)	FCAW (Flux Core)	GTAW (TIG)
Deposition & Speed	Low (2-4 lbs/hr)	High (5-9 lbs/hr)	High (5-9 lbs/hr)	Very Low (2-4 lbs/hr)
Bead Appearance & Slag	Rugged bead, requires slag removal	Clean, smooth, little to no slag	Varies, self-shielded produces more slag than gas-shielded	Extremely clean, no slag
Penetration Profile	Moderate to deep, highly controllable	Varies by transfer mode, spray is strong but directional	Deep with self-shielded, moderate with gas-shielded	Precise, narrow penetration
Positional Capability	All-position by nature	Often limited, spray transfer primarily flat/horizontal	All-position with many self-shielded wires	All-position, but very technique sensitive
Base Metal & Thickness	Great on steel, cast iron, and many alloys. Forgiving of dirty/rusty material	Best on clean mild steel, stainless, and with proper prep for aluminum	Great for thick steel, forgiving outdoors	Best for thin, exotic, or critical metals, requires pristine cleanliness
Equipment & Consumables Cost	Lowest to start, minimal gear	Moderate to high (machine, gas, wire)	Moderate (machine, wire, gas if dual-shield)	Highest for quality setups (machine, gas, tungsten, foot pedal)
Fume & Spatter	High fume generation, more spatter	Lower fume than stick, minimal spatter with correct settings	Gas-shielded lower fume, self-shielded produces more	Lowest fume of the four, near no spatter
Skill Requirement	Moderate-High (arc control, slag removal)	Beginner friendly with good hand-eye coordination	Moderate (can be easy to run, finicky to perfect)	Very high (pedal, hand, torch control all at once)

It’s worth noting AWS documentation states that SAW and GMAW spray transfer are generally limited to flat and horizontal positions, while SMAW is inherently an all-position process. For vertical, overhead, or out of position work with no way to rotate a joint, this alone can make stick the only practical option. Modern SMAW practice even utilizes the drag technique (holding the electrode nearly perpendicular and pulling it) for faster travel and flatter beads when appropriate.

When Stick Shines, and When It Doesn’t

The biggest reason stick refuses to die is its freedom. A basic AC or inverter stick machine is the cheapest to start, works on a generator, works on dirty or rusted steel, is all-position, requires minimal equipment, and is incredibly portable. Whether it’s patching farm equipment, repairing a gate, or bracing something miles away from a shop, there’s a high chance a stinger will be in the back of a truck before a gas cylinder is.

That freedom comes with honest limitations. Stick is slow with high heat input, produces slag and spatter, and has a higher fume output than gas-shielded processes. In fact, OSHA welding safety guidance notes SMAW is characterized by high fume generation rates, whereas gas-shielded FCAW and GMAW are noted for lower fume than self-shielded types. Additionally, stick’s slag and spatter make it unsuitable for environments requiring cleanliness, such as aerospace welding.

The Modern Trend

The industry isn’t abandoning stick, it’s specializing it. In field work, we’re seeing a large trend towards self-shielded flux core and cellulosic or iron powder stick electrodes for their combination of portability, speed, and penetration on rough, unground steel. Conversely, in controlled environments like aerospace welding and food processing, cleanliness is king. For these jobs, gas-shielded MIG and precision TIG are overwhelmingly favored over stick to avoid the risk of slag inclusions or excess contamination.

So before grabbing your stinger, ask yourself one question: do I need precision and cleanliness, or do I need to lay down a solid, reliable weld on whatever metal is in front of me, wherever I am? If it’s the latter, nine times out of ten, stick is still the right tool for the job.

Safety, Fume, and Best Practices for Stick Welding

Stick welding is easy to run and easy to get hurt with: the arc damages eyes in seconds, the fume attacks lungs, and molten spatter burns skin and starts fires. Experienced shops treat that as the difference between a career and a claim.

What Is in Welding Fume

Welding fume is not smoke from burning material. It is a fine aerosol of condensed metal oxides created when the arc vaporizes base metal, filler metal, and coatings, with particles small enough to reach the deepest part of the lungs and stay there.

• Manganese (mild and high-strength steel): heavy short-term exposure causes metal fume fever, a flu-like illness with fever, chills, cough, and chest tightness within hours; long-term exposure is associated with parkinsonian-like neurological symptoms.
• Hexavalent chromium, Cr(VI) (stainless steel, chrome-plated materials, some carbon steels): a known human carcinogen and the exposure OSHA has focused on hardest.
• Iron oxide (carbon steel): the most common fume component by volume and generally the least concerning.
• Zinc oxide (galvanized steel): causes metal fume fever and can be severe.
• Nickel, cadmium, lead, and beryllium (stainless, nickel alloys, plated and lead-coated stock).

Stainless concentrates Cr(VI), so most shops run a separate respiratory protection program for stainless work. New to it? Our guides to air gas welding explained and airgas welding equipment cover the cylinder and shielding gas side of the trade.

The OSHA and NIOSH Limits

Legal limits and health limits do not land in the same place. OSHA’s hexavalent chromium standard sets a permissible exposure limit (PEL) of 5 micrograms per cubic meter as an 8-hour time-weighted average, with an action level of 2.5 micrograms per cubic meter. The action level is the monitoring tripwire; the PEL is the legal ceiling. NIOSH recommends 0.2 micrograms per cubic meter over the same 8-hour TWA, 25 times lower.

OSHA’s hexavalent chromium National Emphasis Program ranks the activities most likely to exceed the limit, with thermal cutting on top and shielded metal arc welding right behind it, so stick welding sits high on the fume list. CPWR field research on stainless steel SMAW found local exhaust ventilation associated with a statistically significant 55 percent reduction in Cr(VI) fume levels.

The Hierarchy of Controls

OSHA does not want you reaching for a respirator first. The Edison Welding Institute’s arc welding guidance and state regulatory guidance both put source control first, then exposure control, then personal protection.

1. Substitute. Lower-fume or less toxic consumables, such as a fume-extraction electrode over a basic cellulose rod, or moving a job from stick to MIG or TIG where the joint allows. Moving stainless to MIG is the most effective control available.
2. Engineering controls. Local exhaust ventilation with the nozzle close to the arc, capturing fume before it reaches the breathing zone. General dilution ventilation supports it but cannot replace it.
3. Administrative controls. Training, procedures, hot work permits, restricted access, and monitoring.
4. PPE and respiratory protection. The last line of defense. A respirator on a welder outside a hooded area signals failing ventilation, not a fix for it.

Confined Spaces and Gases

Stick welding needs no shielding gas cylinder, but gas hazards stay real because stick jobs often sit beside cylinders. Helium, argon, and carbon dioxide displace oxygen and cause asphyxiation, and carbon monoxide forms in enclosed areas as incomplete shielding gas combustion produces CO. Heat adds a second hazard: steel loses strength as it heats. Never enter a tank, vessel, or pit without a permit, atmospheric testing, and a spotter outside; gas monitoring must be continuous, ventilation mechanical, and a qualified person outside with a retrieval system ready.

Arc Flash, Eye Damage, and Skin

The arc emits intense visible light, infrared heat, and ultraviolet radiation. Looking at it directly, even briefly, can cause photochemical conjunctivitis, the painful “arc eye” that can take days to resolve. You need an auto-darkening helmet or a shade lens of the correct density for your amperage; ordinary safety glasses are not enough.

UV and IR reach exposed skin at the helmet, neck, forearms, and inside of the arm. Wear flame-resistant clothing, cover the neck, roll sleeves down, and add a leather apron; hot spatter causes the classic forearm and hand burns, so leather gloves matter even with the arc off. On the electrical side the bigger risk is the electrode holder and work clamp at high amperage: de-energize before changing electrodes, never change a nozzle on a live torch, and keep your gloves dry. A common beginner problem is the electrode sticking to the work; pull it free with the holder, switch off, and re-grind.

Fire Watch and Hot Work Permits

SMAW is hot work, and hot work carries a paperwork trail. A hot work permit confirms the area was inspected, combustibles removed or protected, extinguishers staged, and the fire watch named. The watch is specific: a trained individual with an extinguisher, dedicated solely to watching for ignition, remaining at least 30 minutes after welding stops. Combustibles within 35 feet must be moved or shielded with fire blankets, and if the watch leaves, the work stops.

PPE Checklist

• Welding helmet with the correct shade lens: shade 8 up to about 50 amps, shade 10 for 50 to 150 amps, shade 12 for 150 to 300 amps, shade 13 to 15 above that. Auto-darkening helmets remove the guesswork.
• Safety glasses with side shields under the helmet, for grinding and chipping.
• Flame-resistant clothing, long sleeves, and a leather apron.
• Leather gloves rated for heat and spatter, plus safety-toe leather boots with a metatarsal guard.
• Respiratory protection where the hazard assessment requires it. An N95 or P100 particulate respirator handles metal fume; a supplied-air respirator is required for some confined space and high-chromium situations.

Shop Habits That Keep You Safe

• Store electrodes correctly. Low-hydrogen rods such as E7018 belong in a rod oven at roughly 250 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit; rods left in a damp locker absorb moisture and cause hydrogen-induced cracking.
• Check ventilation before you strike an arc. Turn on local exhaust first, confirm it is pulling air, and position the hood before you light up.
• Inspect the machine and cables for nicked jackets, cracked electrode holders, loose ground clamps, and missing strain relief. A frayed work lead is a shock and fire hazard.
• Keep a welding log with date, job, process, electrode, amperage, voltage, position, and welder. Six months later it is the difference between an answer and a guess.

Stick welding rewards discipline more than talent. Set up the area, respect the fume, keep the paperwork. The advantages of stick welding are real, and none of them survive a shop that treats safety as optional.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is stick welding called ‘stick welding’ if there’s no stick?

The nickname comes from the consumable electrode itself: a steel rod coated in powdered flux that looks like a fat stick of chalk. The welding ‘stick’ is consumed as you weld, and what is left behind is slag-covered bead. Outside North America the same process is usually called MMA (manual metal arc) welding, and its formal AWS name is shielded metal arc welding (SMAW).

What does the flux coating actually do?

The flux coating does four jobs at once. It decomposes into a shielding gas that pushes air away from the molten pool, it stabilizes the arc, it supplies deoxidizers and alloying elements that get mixed into the weld metal, and it melts into slag that floats on top of the bead, holds its shape, and helps it cool at the right rate.

Is stick welding harder than MIG or TIG?

It is different rather than simply harder. Stick has a slower, more visible puddle you must manage by hand, plus slag to remove between passes. In return it is far more forgiving of dirty steel, poor fit-up, and awkward positions, and it needs the least expensive equipment. TIG gives the most control; MIG gives the most speed; stick gives the most versatility per dollar.

What does the electrode code E7018 actually mean?

The ‘E’ means it is a covered electrode used for SMAW. The ’70’ is the nominal tensile strength in thousands of pounds per square inch. The ‘1’ means the electrode is approved for all welding positions. The ‘8’ identifies the coating type — iron powder low hydrogen — which is why E7018 is the standard choice for structural steel and code work.

How do I know if I have the polarity backwards?

The symptoms are distinctive: a fluttering or unstable arc, heavy spatter, a narrow cold bead with poor penetration, and a rod that behaves like a 6013 when you expected a 6010. Most rods perform best on DCEP (reverse polarity). Check the machine leads — on most inverters, swapping the work clamp and stinger between the plus and minus terminals reverses polarity.

Do I need a rod oven for E7018 electrodes?

For occasional non-critical work, a sealed dry container kept in a warm, dry room is usually acceptable. But low-hydrogen electrodes are hygroscopic, and moisture pickup causes hydrogen-induced porosity and cracking. Shops doing production or code work keep E7018 in a rod oven at controlled temperature and humidity and recondition it before use, exactly as the manufacturer’s datasheet specifies.

Why does my weld bead look lumpy and cold on the bottom?

That is the classic signature of amperage that is too low for the electrode diameter and thickness, combined with a long arc. The puddle never gets enough energy to wet properly, so the bead sits on top of the work instead of fusing into it. Increase amperage toward the middle of the manufacturer’s published range, shorten the arc to roughly the electrode diameter, and clean the base metal.

Is stick welding safe to do indoors in a garage?

It can be, but only with proper ventilation. OSHA notes that welding outdoors or in open spaces does not by itself guarantee adequate ventilation, and indoor welding without engineering controls results in greater exposure than outdoor welding. Use local exhaust ventilation positioned close to the arc, keep the garage door open, avoid galvanized or painted steel unless you know what you are welding, and consider a lower-fume process for stainless.

Can stick welding weld aluminum and stainless steel?

Yes, but with the correct electrodes. Aluminum uses E5356 or ER4043-class electrodes with DCEN and a reverse-polarity setup, and it needs intense cleaning because aluminum oxide forms instantly. Stainless uses E308L for 304/308-type material with a low-hydrogen electrode and DCEP or AC, and requires dedicated, uncontaminated tools to avoid carbon contamination.

How much does it cost to start stick welding?

It is the least expensive way into arc welding. A basic inverter or used transformer, an electrode holder, ground clamp, work leads, a helmet with auto-darkening lens, gloves, and a starter supply of electrodes can be had for a few hundred dollars, with individual 5 lb boxes of E6013 or E7024 rods typically costing tens of dollars. The ongoing cost is mostly consumables and fume extraction.